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Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Pattern Fitting Part 2 - The Colette Peony

Before I started dressmaking I thought I was fairly normal.  By that I don't mean in a 'not obsessed in a pastime' kind of way - more in a 'my body doesn't have any significant oddities' kind of a way.... then I started dressmaking!
 


This is the back bodice of the Colette Peony, US size 8, no alterations.  The blue line at the bottom represents the waistline and as you can see it is way too high - just like the front bodice had been.  I also noted that the neckline was standing away from me somewhat.  This is because I have.... a.... *sigh*.... dowagers hump! 

So alteration number one was to take in the neck darts a little and lengthen the bodice.


Then I got stuck.  I could see there was excess fabric, but that it also seemed to be pulling inwards.  I tried two tactics...


to the left in the photograph I let out some room at the side seam to see if eradicating the fabric pull would solve it.  In my mind it made it worse.  So after some research I thought it was possible I also had... *sigh*.... *sigh*.... a sway back.  I altered the bodice to take this into account and it seemed to work better.  You can see the safety pins holding the excess fabric on the above photo.


I transferred these changes onto my paper pattern and made a final muslin.  You can note two important things in the photo above 1. a lot of the fabric pull has gone - it's probably not perfect but there was enough ease to make it feel comfortable and 2. I had finally taken pity on Mr HoffiCoffi and stopped my constant demands to be pinned back into this thing and inserted a zip!


The bright yellow pieces are the original pattern and the lined paper you can see are all my alterations.  On the plus side I have a better fitting bodice than I have ever achieved before, on the minus side I have a dowagers hump and a sway back!  Swings and roundabouts.


Let me just cheer myself up with a photo of some fabulous patterns I managed to get in the charity shop this weekend for only a pound each!  Do I need any more cute seventies dresses?  Yes... yes I do.

8 comments:

  1. SO happy you got your pattern fitted..[That is always the non fun part,ha]. Love your pattern find.. such cute 70's dresses. I love them.

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    1. I know - I couldn't wait to finish the fitting so I could make a start on the dress!

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  2. Ah yes, the woes of fitting....! I too, have a 'unique' body shape, and I think it is so awesome that I can actually GET great fit, instead of having to accept ill fitting RTW and compromising on ones own expectations, just to have something to cover myself with (might as well wear curtains).
    Home sewing has been very rewarding, and is a highly useful skill :) Still, there is so much to learn!
    Can't wait to see your finished Peony! Your muslin is looking good :D

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    1. I love the thought of just wearing curtains! Just a belt around the middle and off you go! I think we 'unique' people get into home sewing because we can't find anything that really fits us so I am excited to learn all I can about pattern fitting. Just wish it wasn't so complicated! :)

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  3. Are those patterns multi size? I might have to borrow them if they are! :)

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    1. They are all just a size 14 but I am sure you can grade them down! It's weird - I always seem to find patterns in my size in one charity shop in Penarth - I have a seventies body double!!!

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    2. I think I'm probably 11 on the top half and 12 1/2 on the bottom! ;)

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  4. Seventies clothing was the best, no doubt about it :)

    I am very interested in your alterations as I recognize at least one of the same issues in my clothing (sway back) and have been trying to figure out what the fix is! Now I know.

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