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Saturday, 4 January 2014

Pattern Fitting Part 1 - The Colette Peony

Ah, you start off with such nice pattern pieces.

I have decided that the only way I can improve my dressmaking is by getting fussier about the fit.   This is the nitty gritty of sewing I suppose and so I'm afraid that this blog post features some bad photography on my part when I was alone (and some good photography when Mr HoffiCoffi was off over Christmas!).  It also means that ethereal pictures of me frolicking in a lovely gorgeous dress in a meadow will be sadly lacking for a while!!!!  But - if I ever - decide to frolic in a lovely gorgeous dress in a meadow in the future, the said dress had better be a good fit!

On to the bad photos.

These photos show the fit of a size 8(US) on me, straight out of the box so to speak.  The peony has a slightly high waist maybe but not that high!  I believe the patterns are drafted for a C cup, rather more generous than most commercial patterns, but I need, ahem, a little bit more than that!  The neck and shoulders, in my humble opinion, look ok however (although this does change!  Pattern fitting is really hard!) so I am confident that I chose the right size to start with.

So, out with the scissors and on with the full bust adjustment!

Yes, I did do this myself and yes, I did get slightly trapped!  Look at how much fabric I could add without really changing the side seams.  The red pen mark at the front is where I wanted the waistline to be - quite a way down from the blue line you can see which is where the original pattern stopped.  I transferred all this information onto my original paper copy of the pattern and remade the toile.

And voila!  It's not perfect I'm sure but I'm pretty pleased with it.  The blue line showing the waistline is on my actual waist.  The waist darts were still a little high and I have lowered them slightly in my final pattern draft and I've also lowered the neckline since this photo. 

The above photo shows my altered pattern.  The pink sections are the original size 8 pattern piece, the white paper you can also see are all my alterations.  Actually the bodice front was surprisingly quite straightforward to alter.... just wait until I tell you about the back!!!!

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